Mar 16

Mar 16 Solo sojourn

A voyage alone, complete with dance-offs and group dinners, proves far from lonely, writes Tatyana Leonov.

It's 3pm on day one of my inaugural solo cruise, and I'm shifting apprehensively in my lounge chair aboard the Valiant Lady. The allure of the pool beckons, but a group of 30-somethings have commandeered the handrails, using them as makeshift dance poles. They sway mostly offbeat to the poolside DJ, their lack of inhibition both amusing and admirable. Summoning courage, I navigate past the impromptu dance ensemble and head for the deeper end of the pool, avoiding the ankle-deep area designed for wading and socialising. After a few leisurely strokes, I retreat to my chair, towel off, and try to immerse myself in my book. I'm gradually acclimatising to this new adventure.

Solo cruising has surged in popularity. Eight per cent of global cruise travellers now sail solo, with that number rising to 10 per cent for those departing from US ports, according to the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA). I'm in Florida, aboard the four-day Fire & Sunset Soirees cruise with Virgin Voyages, which sails round-trip from Miami with stops in Key West and Bimini in the Bahamas. I've joined the growing ranks of solo adventurers to see how others are embracing this trend.

Several cruise lines have tailored their offerings to better accommodate solo travellers. Norwegian Cruise Line has expanded its solo staterooms across the fleet, including inside, ocean view, and balcony options, eliminating the traditional double occupancy surcharge. The Valiant Lady, my home at sea, offers 46 solo cabins - 40 Solo Insider cabins and six Sea View cabins designed and priced specifically for independent travellers. Although my Solo Insider Cabin is compact (let's call it efficient), it serves its purpose. With no window or balcony, there is no hiding that it is an internal cabin, but the bed is comfortable, and I'm only here to sleep. This isn't the kind of cruise where a traveller books a solo cabin just to lounge inside - it's about the experience beyond the room.

After a quick refresh, I head to the "Let's Set Sail" party, where loud music and champagne fuel the collective anticipation for what's ahead. The Happenings Cast, the energetic team who replace the traditional cruise directors and entertainment managers on Virgin Voyages, takes the stage, setting the tone for what's to come. The drinks keep flowing at the Solo Meetup, a gathering tucked on the hull of the ship on Deck 15, with a couples' event happening simultaneously directly above us. The solo sailors on board my cruise - "sailors" being the name Virgin calls all its passengers - are a mixed bunch and include a young woman who left her fiance at home because he isn't into cruising, and a recently retired gentleman from Brooklyn who was encouraged to go on holiday by his wife and kids. Not only is this his first holiday alone, but it's also his first cruise.

Virgin Voyages wants to make those travelling alone feel part of the group, and repeat guests help drive the camaraderie. Before the hour is up, I've joined a WhatsApp group for solo cruisers and a Facebook group open to anyone on the ship. Solo travel doesn't mean being alone - it's about building connections and embracing new experiences.

Dining is also a new-to-cruise experience, with the buffet concept swept aside and a range of restaurants that need to be booked ahead, enticing sailors. Solo travellers can join the 5.45pm meetup, where they're grouped and given a restaurant "ticket" that guarantees a booking somewhere on the ship, but I prefer to dodge this early event and stretch out my day with a later meal. Booking early via the app is key, and I waste no time securing spots at Razzle Dazzle, Pink Agave, Extra Virgin, and Gunbae as soon as I board. Dining alone turns out to be surprisingly social. At Gunbae, the Korean barbecue spot, communal tables and drinking games quickly turn strangers into friends. I bond with my new friends over our shared inability to cook meat properly, before we dive into a soju-fuelled number game.

At Mexican eatery Pink Agave, my table for one turns into an unexpected social affair. I find myself nestled into a tight but lively corner. By my main course, I've heard a woman's divorce story and debated Scarlet Night outfits with a couple. The unforgettable, full ship activation where everyone dons their best (often daring) red attire. I've packed a floral frock. Next time I'll know it's more Fire Island than high tea with the Queen.

This cruise includes a full day at Bimini in the Bahamas, a tiny island just a hop from Miami. One half of Bimini exudes classic Bahamian charm with colourful houses, conch fritters, and the laid-back pace of island life. The other is all about luxury, dominated by Richard Branson's private beach club - an expansive haven of loungers, DJ sets, and cocktails. I make time for both. First, I join a shore excursion where a local demonstrates the art of harvesting conchs, and we meet a man who built his home from recycled materials, inspired by the intelligence of dolphins.

Later, I head to The Beach Club at Bimini, where the vibe shifts from tranquil island charm to an upscale beach party. The club blends natural materials and soft earth tones into the seascape, and I imagine the morning yoga and meditation here is serene (part of the cruise line's Vitamin Sea ethos, which balances relaxation and revelry). But I arrive as the tempo picks up. Pool floats bob in the expansive lagoon-style pool, while DJs spin beats that ripple through the sand. Lunch is a spread of Caribbean-inspired tapas - conch-and-mango salad, banana leaf-wrapped queen snapper, and Bahamian rum cake, to name a few. I graze and watch a group trying to synchronise dance moves in the water.

By late afternoon, I'm sun-drunk and perfectly content. I find a quieter section of the beach club, reserved for Rockstar guests (VIPs who get priority access to premium services, private seating, and exclusive amenities), with cushier loungers and an absence of people trying to balance cocktails and phone cameras. I stretch out, close my eyes, and let the sounds of the ocean and distant laughter blend into an island lullaby.

I came on this cruise alone, expecting a quiet escape. Instead, I've been pulled into group dinners, dance-offs, and deep conversations with strangers. I've swapped numbers, joined WhatsApp groups, and now follow an interesting bunch of people on Instagram - including a female bodybuilder and a retired magician. As I sip my pina colada, I realise that sometimes, the best way to reconnect with yourself is to let yourself be swept up in the moment.

THE DETAILS

CRUISE

Virgin Voyages has year-round adults-only cruises from Miami. Valiant Lady is the latest ship in the fleet. A four-night Fire & Sunset Soirees cruise starting from Miami stops in Key West and Bimini. Solo fares from $US880 ($1391); cabin for two from $US1272 ($2010). See virginvoyages.com